The key ring is closed and sealed with tools. After that the bunch cannot be opened without it showing. There are two versions: the solid stainless steel keyring and the flexible Flex keyring of braided steel cable. Both are stamped with a unique serial number.
Stainless steel keyring
Material
Stainless steel
Thickness
4 mm, solid round
Size
Inner ø
Order code
1″
3 cm
KR3
1⅝″
4 cm
KR4
2″
5 cm
KR5
3″
7 cm
KR7
4″
9 cm
KR9
Flex keyring
Material
Braided steel cable
Thickness
Cable 2.6 mm, seal 4 mm
Size
Inner ø
Order code
1″
3 cm
Flex KR3
1⅝″
4 cm
Flex KR4
2″
5 cm
Flex KR5
3″
7 cm
Flex KR7
4″
9 cm
Flex KR9
Five sizes, the same seal
All sizes have the same sealed closure and use the same tools. The size only determines how many keys fit: from fourteen on the smallest to sixty-six on the largest. The stainless steel and the Flex keyring come in the same five sizes, so you can choose per bunch without buying extra tools.
Tools, grooves and colour coding
Tools
The closing tool and the sealing tool belong together: close first, then seal. Opening a sealed ring requires a cutter.
Closing tool
Sets the ring round. Five slots, one per size.
Sealing tool
Makes the closure permanent. First groove.
Cutter
Opens the ring at the second groove.
Knipex cutter
Cuts anywhere. Steel wire up to 4 mm.
The two grooves
Every closure has two grooves. Which one you use decides whether the ring closes or opens — do not mix them up.
First groove
Sealing
The groove next to the seam. Use the sealing tool here.
Second groove
Opening
The groove further from the seam. Use the cutter here.
Colour coding
Separate colour tabs to tell rings apart per building, department or shift. Available in five colours.
RedOrangeYellowGreenBlue
Stainless steel keyring · Closing the ring
The stainless steel keyring is worked with three tools: the closing tool sets the ring round, the sealing tool makes the closure permanent and the cutter opens it again. Fit all keys onto the ring before sealing — nothing can be added afterwards.
Steps 1 – 6
1Place one side of the ring in the slot of the closing tool that matches the size. The tool has five slots, from 1 to 4 inch (figure 1).
2Place the other side into the hooks at the base of the arm. The ring now hangs centred in the tool and the seal is parallel with the tool body.
3Swing the arm slowly back to about 90° and feel the resistance. If it is too strong, or a gap remains, adjust the knob accordingly.
4Then swing the arm entirely back, to about 120° (figure 2).
5The ring is now closed and the seam has no gap (figures 3 and 4). If there is still space between the ends, turn the adjustment knob one setting further and repeat steps 3 and 4.
6Keep the ring in the tool and continue with sealing.
Note: with the adjustment knob set too tight, swinging the arm all the way could distort the ring. Do not close further than needed.
Figure 1 The ring in the closing tool. The hook on the closer arm, the adjustment knob, the ring closer body and the ring seal are labelled.
Figure 2 The arm swung entirely back, about 120°.
Figure 3 The seam up close. The ends must meet with no gap.
Figure 4 The same seam, seen from the other side.
The figures are taken from the manufacturer’s manual and carry the original English part names.
Stainless steel keyring · Sealing and opening
Steps 7 – 11 · Sealing the ring
7Hold the arm of the closing tool. With the other hand lift the handle of the sealing tool and place the seal inside the opening (figure 5).
8Align the two wheel ridges of the tool with the groove closest to the seam. This is the first groove (figure 6).
9Push the handle down into the tool body (figure 7) and swing the tool back and forth at least three times over about 120° (figure 8).
10Lift the handle to release the ring.
11Rotate the arm of the closing tool back and take out the ring. Record the serial number in your key administration.
Figure 5 The sealing tool on the ring, while it stays in the closing tool.
Figure 6 The two wheel ridges in the first groove, next to the seam.
Figure 7 The handle pushed down into the tool body.
Figure 8 Swing the tool back and forth, at least 120°.
Steps 12 – 14 · Opening the ring
12Lift the arm of the cutter and align the two wheel ridges with the groove furthest from the seam. This is the second groove (figure 10).
13Push the handle into the tool body.
14Swing the tool back and forth at least three times over about 120°. The seal breaks at the second groove; the ring cannot be reused afterwards.
With the Knipex cutter you can cut the ring anywhere, including outside the groove (figure 9). Use it when the seal is not reachable.
Figure 9 The Knipex cutter; it cuts anywhere on the ring.
Figure 10 The cutter on the second groove.
Flex keyring · Sealing in seven steps
The Flex keyring needs no closing tool: the braided end slides into the hollow side of the connector and is fixed there with the sealing tool. Only the sealing tool and, for opening, the cutter are needed.
1Place keys and other assets on the ring. Always do this before sealing.
2Insert the free end of the cable all the way into the hollow tube end of the connector.
3Place the sealing tool on the ring, with the crimping wheel ridges in the groove.
4Place the connector in a vice with the bend trapped in the vice jaws to prevent the connector from spinning.
5Swing the closed sealing tool three times back and forth a minimum of 120°.
6The crimp is finished. Remove the sealing tool.
7Record the ring serial number for auditing.
Final product
The bunch is secured and stays complete
The sealed sleeve closes the ring permanently. The keys can rotate a full 360 degrees around the ring so they do not bunch up, but no key can come off without damaging the closure. Every ring is stamped with a unique serial number, so you can audit both the ring and the keys hanging from it.
To open the ring later, use the cutter. Once opened, a ring cannot be sealed again.
Sizes and order codes are on page 1. Subject to change.